Lessca combo swap meet

All You Need To Know About Tents

lessca combo swap meet

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Small buffer of just 4 RAW files, though. Shares the same sensor with the D, and thus the same great image quality too — the best balance of resolution, dynamic range and low noise available at the moment in an APS-C sensor.

MUCH better color than the D because of the bit pipeline. Very light and compact, swivel touch screen useful for low angle work, and decent video quality. A bit of a Goldilocks camera: Amazing battery life; a slight ergonomic downgrade from the D and D, as well as not being fully magnesium-bodied, but something had to give at that price point. Better that than the sensor. Also adds the very useful U1 and U2 positions. Not noticeably smaller or lighter than the D — until you put them next to each other.

The best current travel camera? Introduced me to the world of bokeh and the addiction of interchangeable lenses. Replaced by the D2H. Shares the incredibly versatile sensor and AF system from the D3, and delivers identical image quality and performance for almost all purposes. Capable of hitting 8fps with the battery grip and suitable power source, too. Along with the D3, the first camera where I felt that I was now the limitation in the imaging chain, and would have to progress substantially to change that.

Mine has done over 70, actuations and remains in my arsenal for available light reportage work, and as a backup body to the DE. Save the difference in price and go buy some glass instead — and enjoy the wider choices, because the larger pixel pitch is very forgiving indeed.

The shutter is silent and low-vibration. Hell, even the mirror arrived perfectly calibrated a first for any camera for me. Note on the flare issue: The D uses CAM Fantastic value for money at the price, and frankly makes buying the Nikon V1 a little pointless.

Improved AF system from the D, and the same sensor, too. In some ways, the only difference was the frame rate and body build quality. This camera has moved the bar for 35mm DSLRs. A non-issue if you downsize, but then why would you do that after having to suffer huge file sizes?

Highly recommended to spend some time calibrating your lenses using the AF fine tune function. Watch out for AF issues with side focus points. This camera takes the Oscar for Best Image Quality in 35mm Format at the moment — by a long, long stretch.

CAMERAPEDIA!: The Equipment Database – Ming Thein | Photographer

It makes the D3x feel like positively old, slow technology by comparison even though the images it produces are of course still the same as the day it was released. And did I mention that the battery life is better than my D3 ever was? Live view magnification is much more detailed.

The grip is more comfortable. Video is now up to P It has an electronic front curtain shutter for zero vibration. And the tonal response is now highlight-biased and very, well, natural.

It is the camera I reach for when I need results, and no uncertainty. It is also the benchmark against which I compare against everything else. But we still need a better way to focus manual lenses: Still the one to beat. A subtle game changer of a camera, and harbinger of technology to come. Interesting that Nikon chose to put this bit of technology into its enthusiast camera rather than its professional ones.

Useable up to ISOwith being okay in emergencies. A nice pair with the VR, though corner quality left something to be desired. Last camera in this range to use point CAM which really only had a useable center point. Incredibly heavy and solid for its size, with not a single loose feeling component. My sample dated from the mid 70s, and had never been serviced — why would you, if it never needed it?

Metered variant A and AS, with aperture priority had accuracy good enough for Velvia. If you shoot film, or have been curious to, this is a no-brainer. Buy one and enjoy, then let your grandchildren enjoy, too. Now I just have to get over my nervousness with it and shoot the bloody thing — it feels familiar, but not — much like the F2A I used to have. And yes, I will write a review of it once I have some images shot with it. If the F5 Limited Edition enters my collection with titanium prism and top plate then I probably ought to admit some form of psychological issue.

Reportedly one of the most reliable cameras ever produced. Mine appears to have gone through at least one major conflict, but still works perfectly. However, used expensive CR batteries and ate them by the dozens. Felt very much like a film D2H, except somehow even more solid.

The only film camera I can think of with an LCD on the back for plain text custom functions. Lighter than the mechanical single digit Fs, but still well built and solid. Metal bladed FP shutter allowed for surprisingly high shutter speeds; great for use with fast aperture lenses and slide film. Amazingly easy to use focusing screen; bright and snappy.

Interestingly, used prices are very high; higher than for an F5, and nearly as high as for an F6. Something to be said about being able to run without batteries, I suppose.

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Not because of any one of its features, but because of its combination of features. And continuous AF is nearly worthless — good thing single AF is so fast. No built in flash, but they give you a little weather-sealed one that can also double as a wireless commander for other flashes. Inherits and improves on the same excellent stabiliser as the previous E-M5. Quite possibly all the camera one would ever need. Built in wifi, too — for the social media crowd. A firmware update adds a 0-second anti-shock mode and electronic front curtain; it works well, but restricts you to single image shooting only — unfortunately defeating the point of the camera for documentary or fast moving work.

If you do, sorry, look elsewhere.

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Built like an absolute tank and quite a pleasure to use — even today. The body is metal outside but plastic inside, which seems back to front to me. Not very ergonomic, either. Interestingly can only manage 3fps because of its older shutter design — the others hit up to 4.

Not worth the money unless either of these things is mission-critical for you. Also has a deg tilting LCD for narcissists.

Decent image quality; great color and acceptable noise at ISO Very responsive and lighting fast focusing — same system as in its more expensive siblings. Incredibly compact body means you can slap a pancake on it, chuck it in your pocket and call it a day. Great battery life, too — easily a thousand shots before you need to swap out packs. Most of the LCD is black and unused; the strap lugs are still idiotically positioned this seems to be an Olympus design hallmark and the ring on the back is fiddly.

Other than that, I really do love this camera. Well built but has too many annoying stylistic concessions to design; for instance that knob on the front for picture styles useful only for JPEG shooters. Not to mention a lot of hard-wired physical controls that are not useful if you shoot raw. UI has come a long way since the original XZ Good image quality to ISO ; for emergencies.

I like the camera, but the size and steep price are difficult to justify. Annoyingly charges in-camera only, like the Sony RX If shot with sloppiness, results are terrible. I had to review several of these, and frankly, they all just felt like appliances. Has a surprisingly rich feature set and is very customisable — despite the size of the thing. The one tiny control dial was a bit fiddly but still acceptable. Smaller than an LX7, even.

Almost the same image quality as and a sensor related to the E-M1. Kit lens — the — is excellent. Overall, this is a fun, take-anywhere bit of kit. Surprisingly good dynamic range — 11 stops or so. Much better with unfortunately optional EVF. Lens QC is all over the place — from five samples, I had one excellent lens, two so-so ones, and two plain duds asymmetry, softness. Limited to ISO for good image quality, but delivered nice tonality at lower ISOs and surprisingly useable dynamic range, too.

Excellent stabilizer and battery life. Excellent ergonomics and construction. The only downside is that it feels slow in operation: Seems to resolve ever so slightly more than the Z, though this may also be down to the lens options available.

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Hugely configurable and with a great feel; clearly designed by a photographer. I bought one on these strengths, and was never happy with the image quality. DNG writing was painfully slow, color was horrible, and the only thing going for it was DIY noise reduction i.

Anyway, it worked — I personally felt this was a huge improvement over the last one. This iteration of the ultimate pocket PJ camera increased lens speed to f1. Still remains hugely customizable.

My favorite point and shoot, at this moment in time. If I had to take only one camera with me for a trip, this would probably be it — and was, on several occasions.

Ergonomics like a dream. Focus is blazing fast in good light, glacial in low light or low contrast. Has fast phase-detect AF with multiple points! Runs aperture priority or program — adjusted off a dial — with another dial for exposure compensation.

Very, very easy and fast to use.

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The body certainly looks like it. Although the lenses are excellent, focusing is incredibly slow, and you have to change the lens AND the sensor if you want a sensor upgrade.

What they should have done was make sensor modules, lens modules, and body modules — that way you can choose to upgrade one or all as you please. It retains the configurability of its more junior sibling, but loses the speed. Sad to say, but not recommended. You still have to use PS for final processing. Still, when the prices inevitably fall, it might make an interesting experiment. Controls are highly configurable, but not very ergonomic or responsive; files take forever to write and AF is truly glacial.

Note however that colour is not accurate; the red channel appears a bit thin as it sits at the bottom of the sensor stack. It can be used wide open at normal distances without reservation, and close up down to 23cm from about f4 onwards. Made the D3x very difficult to justify — but somehow there was still a huge difference in image quality despite using the same base sensor.

The camera also lacked live view, which the D3x had. One of the designs which Sony got ergonomically very right — actually, felt a lot like the old Minolta Dynax 9 — however, it was let down by the rest of the camera. Great at low ISO, though; would probably still be fine as a studio camera today. However, most companies fail to tape the corners that are prone to leakage. If the corners are not properly sealed, take the time to do it yourself.

If you could spend five bucks and 15 minutes to ensure a long and happy life, would you? Of course you would! And one of the best things you can do for a tent is to use a groundsheet religiously.

Although the bottom of your tent is made of reinforced material that is thicker than either its rain fly or tent walls, the forest floor is an abrasive place. To prevent accidental punctures from rocks and the like, lay a plastic ground cover under the tent's floor. Most tents on the market now have a fully sewn in groundsheet, often with what's called a 'bath-tub' floor design.

This is where the groundsheet extends further up the side of the tent to eliminate any water penetration from the side seams. Mountain tents commonly use a groundsheet material made from neoprene coated nylon, which is extremely waterproof and durable but heavier than the normal PU coated nylon groundsheets.

In the cheaper end of the tent market a polythene material is used as it is robust, waterproof and inexpensive but it is heavy and noisy!

Thin polyethylene sheeting from a hardware store is a lightweight, inexpensive option to go under your tent. Old shower curtains make great ground clothes. They should not extend beyond the edge of the tent; otherwise they will collect moisture which could enter your tent.

This groundsheet should be cut to fit the shape of the tent floor-as big, but no bigger. A groundsheet that peeks out from the edges of the tent will channel water underneath, and no degree of waterproofing will stop water from seeping inside. You can buy material for groundsheet at both outdoor-equipment and hardware stores. Plastic from hardware stores is perfectly fine and often cheaper. Making your own groundsheet For materials you'll need a large sheet of waterproof material, scissors, a marker, some duct tape and grommets optional.

Lay the uncut groundsheet out and set up your tent on top of it without rainfly and vestibule. Stake the tent out tautly. Using the marker, trace the outline of the tent. Trim the excess, following an invisible line that is 2 inches inside the line you traced. This is to prevent any overhanging fabric, which will direct rain underneath your tent's floor.

This is very important! When your trimming is complete, no portion of the groundsheet should extend beyond the footprint of the tent. If you plan on using nylon a good choice because of its light weight and durabilitydisregard Step 3 and cut exactly along the traced line.

Then fold over the edge of the groundsheet all the way around and sew a 2-inch hem to prevent the fabric from fraying.

Instead of cutting uniformly 2 inches inside your tracing, leave the corners on the original line and arc the sides inward. Then attach grommets to the corners. By looping the grommets over the tent pole tips, you've firmly attached the groundsheet. Plus you can use it as a pack cover in the rain, a cooking shelter or a vestibule extension.

CAMERAPEDIA!: The Equipment Database

If you use a shower curtain, polyethylene or Tyvek, cut long strips of duct tape in half, lengthwise. Then carefully fold the strips over the edges of the groundsheet. This will protect the edges from tearing or shredding. Make sure the rain fly is an adequate size, covering most of the tent with an extended section at the door to allow entry without soaking the inside of the tent.

Make sure the tent is big enough to accommodate all the campers plus a place to stow their gear. Particular circumstances, like snow camping, beach camping, or backpacking, may call for specialized tents, accessories or considerations. Let's look further into the aspects of selecting a proper tent. Basic Styles Understanding tent lingo has become as complicated as translating at a United Nations conference.

Here are a few definitions to help guide you through this dilemma. Keep in mind the three basic components of a tent: Additionally, most tents come equipped with stakes and a stuff sack. Single-walled versus double-walled tents. Traditional tents have a nylon body, which may be covered by a polyurethane-coated rain fly.

Generally, double-walled tents are heavier than their single cousins, but are also less expensive. The advantage of double-walled tents is that they breathe well the canopy and fly have several inches of space between them, or the fly can be removed completelywith less condensation forming on the interior walls. Also, if you are accident-prone, a punctured rain fly can be repaired or replaced, leaving the main tent intact. Rain flies that have lost their waterproofness can also be replaced with less cost than is required to buy a new single-walled tent.

Shape What shape tent you purchase is just one of the many factors involved in finding the tent that is just right for you. The shape of the tent, of course, determines a lot, but you will also find that even if you are in a car, the weightsizeventilationtent materials, tent polesworkmanshipwaterproofingset up and color will also matter.

For example, if you drive a Geo Metro, it is doubtful you'll want to fill your car with a full-sized cabin tent. Evaluating tent designs can be a little daunting; many will have similar features, but look completely different when erected. Most tent designs, however, are variations on the following five configurations.

A-frames The A-frame tent is becoming outmoded as newer, sexier-looking dome tents take over the market. Experienced campers, however, swear by their reliability in the face of bad weather-in spite of their old-fashioned design, which features two sloping sides falling away from a rigid center pole, a design that catches the wind but sheds water quickly.

This design offers less interior space for the size than more contemporary designs but offers more interior height. A-frames are often lighter in weight than domes because there are often fewer poles. While most A-frames require stakessome modified A-frames are freestanding. A-frames tend to cost less than their dome-shaped cousins, and this may be only one of the reasons to choose this tried-and-true design.

Domes This style of tent is by far the most popular recreational tent around. It offers plenty of floor space and is designed to ride out heavy winds.

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Are more aerodynamic and stable, with a sleeker profile to shed water and wind effectively. Dome Tents are generally easy to set up. You usually slide 2 or 3 poles made of aluminum or fiberglass, through sleeves on the tent and then pull them up to the round shape and put the ends in little "corners" of fabric.

The poles come in several sections and are attached with interior cord Dome tents are preferable if you will be in an area that is prone to high winds because the shape makes for little risk of collapsing. Dome tents usually are packed into one bag for both the tent and poles. Some manufacturers color-code the sleeves, and this helps. In bad weather, having practiced pitching your tent beforehand will be a dress rehearsal if you have to do it quickly.

The drawback of dome tents is that they usually aren't as tall or roomy and the floor plan isn't as efficient as the standard A-frame rectangle for sleeping. The sloping sides of the dome mean that you will hunch over a lot, even in large tents that have standing room directly under the center of the dome. Their crisscrossing polesproducing a hexagonal, octagonal, or similar geometrical shape, make them extremely rigid - therefore good in windy conditions.

Sleeping bags and duffels are rectangles, why would you want a Hex shaped tent? A hex is stronger in wind and snow. Square tents are much easier to organize and things just plain fit better. Freestanding tents also offer the added convenience of portability; you can set them up in one location and move them-in one piece-to another within a reasonable distance if your first site is too rocky or uneven.

At the very least, staking is required to help pull the rain fly taut and therefore rainproof at midpoints on each side of the tent.

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Bear in mind that an unstaked, freestanding tent can become airborne when hit with a good gust of wind. Some tents are made of rain-resistant material, but many are constructed with light, breathable nylon and are protected by rain flies. The great thing about a good dome is the way they take the rain.

The secret is the fly. A good fly will have enough overhang to let you keep the windows open in a pretty good rain, this adds to comfort. Also hidden behind the fly is a tent that is largely mesh fabric. Air is able to come up under the fly and pass in and out of the tent offering ventilation and privacy. This is important both to keep cool on summer nights and to release moisture in cooler seasons. A good fly will come down to near the ground and can be staked out so that a straight falling rain will never touch the actual tent!

Hoop Tents This tent design may have been the originator to the more adaptable and improved dome tent. Designed for use by serious backpackers and others who opt to shed the weight of heavier tentsthe hoop tent is a usually cylindrical design with curved sidewalls.

Hoop tents are lightweight because they use only two polesbut are a bit less spacious than domes or A-frames. These tents aren't as rugged in high winds, rain, or snow as A-frames or Domes, but their shape is highly efficient for both weight and floor space.

Hoop tents generally incorporate three arched frame stays, which allow for nice roomy doors and high ceilings. Some of these tents feature a fold-back covering that permits occupants in pleasant weather to see the sky through extra-big panels of mosquito netting.

Although this design can withstand high winds, some models with sloped entrances encourage rain to migrate inside. Hoop tents are for weight-conscious backpackers.